Gondola up Sulphur Mountain
Lake Louise, Alberta
The joys of jetlag wake us early so we head to the gym before breakfast in the Primrose Restaurant. Coman’s vertigo deters him from joining me on a cable car to the top of Sulphur Mountain, opting instead for a massage, but my journey on the Banff Gondola provides spectacular views of the valley below, a patchwork of vistas at my feet.
Once back to his level, we set off on the Bow Valley Parkway, a 60km drive along an incredible road, dotted with spectacular stopping points as we go. Camera clicking away I record each and every view but our first stop of note is Johnston Canyon, a two-hour hike taking in a couple of waterfalls as we go.
It’s unseasonably hot and we swelter along, jostling with big crowds all walking the path alongside us, and whilst the waterfalls are undoubtedly impressive they pale somewhat alongside the Iguazu Falls we saw in Brazil last year; the time and effort of the walk probably better spent exploring the hike to Castle Mountain we stumble along a bit further down the road but are unable to do due to time constraints.
Summit of Sulphur Mountain
We continue past Morant's Curve, with a long, long train passing through in perfect time for our photos, arriving at our stop for the evening in Lake Louise as overcast skies hide the glorious views.
What should be a jaw-dropping sight of aquamarine water framed in a dramatic valley with glacial views is rendered slightly flatter than anticipated. It’s undoubtedly lovely but we’re thankful we opted for the cheaper Deer Lodge Hotel, five minutes walk from the lake, rather than the $500/nt Chateau Fairmont our travel agent had highly recommended.
The Chateau’s “money can buy” views mean nothing when they’re obscured by climactic conditions… although a glimpse at its interior and restaurants suggest a somewhat more opulent overnight experience than we get at the more rustic Deer Lodge.
